I have officially been in South Africa for a year now. It’s hard to believe, but my work with the Field Band Foundation has come to an end and my Fulbright is officially over. I will be writing a concluding post in the next few days, but first I’d like to write a bit about the 2008 Field Band Championships.

As you may recall from last year, the National Championships is the culminating event held each year for the many bands that comprise the Field Band Foundation. The groups come to Johannesburg from all over the country to compete for top honors in several different categories. Each band has to put a twelve-minute show together and compete in one of two divisions: the First Division or the Premiere Division. The First Division is for younger bands and low-scoring groups from the previous year’s Premiere Division competition. The Premiere Division is for the top bands. Also, as part of the two-day event, there is a solo and ensemble competition and a “prescribed piece” competition in which the bands perform a set piece composed for the event.
Read more…

This past June I had the opportunity to travel to Norway with the Field Band Foundation to film their 2008 Norwegian tour and participation in Spilleglede, the annual Norwegian Band Festival. The tour covered several cities along the western coast of Norway and was a special opportunity for the National Field Band, a group selected from top students around the country. Over the course of 10 days, they performed 17 times, held several teaching workshops for young Norwegians and managed to see the highlights of one of the most beautiful parts of Norway. It was an exhilarating experience for everyone and I felt lucky to be there and to be able to enjoy the energy of the Field Band Foundation at its finest.

The Norwegian Band Federation and the Norwegian Peace Corps (Fredskorpset) have done a lot for the Field Band Foundation. Every year they send six Norwegian musicians to South Africa to teach music, discipline and organization to the field bands. The Field Band Foundation also sends several of their members to Norway to teach South African music and culture. It is a unique learning experience and has produced many great results for the FBF and the Norwegians as well. The program is funded by the Norwegian government and the 2008 Field Band tour served as a showcase of the success of the exchange, as well as a very entertaining international highlight to the festival.

Whereas the Field Band Foundation prides itself on its energy, spontaneity and (for lack of a better term) “African-ness”, Norwegian marching bands tend to be much more formal, disciplined and militaristic. In fact, the country’s most highly regarded marching band, the King’s Guard, is a military band through and through. But, this stark contrast between the Norwegians and the South Africans was really wonderful to see and audiences at every stop were blown away by the energy and warmth of the field band. In one scene from my video (posted below), you’ll see the Kings Guard followed immediately by the field band, and I think you’ll see what I mean about this contrast.

Though the performances were spectacular and beyond all my expectations, perhaps the most memorable moments of the tour for me were the many fun and often hilarious events that happened in between the performances. Wherever we went, there was a constant flow of energy and enthusiasm though the band. Whether they were rapping in Zulu, cracking jokes, singing traditional songs or playing pick-up soccer, every moment seemed to be filled with activity and fun. I got to know the group quite well and really enjoyed spending time with them as a friend and not just a teacher. I generally only see my students in South Africa during the scheduled times that I teach, so this opportunity was really special for me and definitely one of the highlights of my year with the Field Band Foundation.

Though I joined the tour as an innocent cameraman, I got conscripted into driving the instrument truck, then shuttling people around in a beat-up van after our bus broke down, and even acting as tour director for a couple of days when the person in charge got sick! So the tour was definitely pretty eventful for me too and though it got a bit stressful at times, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and would gladly do it again. In fact, I would love more than anything to organize a field band tour to the US. Perhaps I will set myself to that task when I get back home…

Take a look at the video below and let me know what you think. It’s the longest video I’ve made so far on the Field Band Foundation, but anything shorter just wouldn’t have done justice to the tour. I think mostly everything in the video is self-explanatory. But, if you are wondering how the band wound up singing and dancing along to a Romanian folk band, well I’m still a bit shocked about that myself! The Romanians were another international guest at the festival and apparently what started off as an impromptu drum competition between the South Africans and the Romanians turned into one of the most bizarre and amazing cross-cultural displays I could imagine. I hope you enjoy!

by Phally Chroy

Let’s do the math: if you can relate to the following entry, then I guess we have something in common. If not, do not feel left out. I still love you like my brother, sisters, father, mother– like my family.

Here are some random things to think about when you are sitting there thinking about your life, how far you have traveled, how much you have accomplished, and how there are those the things that you wish you had done less of.

1. Khmer people love to go the park (if you grew up in America and are remotely Khmer, then you know what I am talking about). We go to the park whenever it is hot and treat it like a family gathering: Always looking to buy those small, dirty clams and eat them at home with tamarind garlic sauce. If not, then we’re probably buying bok-la-hung from the Laos lady instead of the Khmer lady, because the Laos lady makes her homemade crab sauce spicier. When done with the bok-la hung, and looking for something else to eat, we head for the grilled chicken or beef (never touching the grilled fish because we know better. It was probably caught in the same lake we remember jumping and swimming in when we were young). Then our sweet tooth takes hold… and either we get some of that pink or green sweet drink stuff mixed with ice (that makes your teeth rot), reserving the coffee flavor drink stuff for the old folks or, head for the Khmer dessert: the green noodles with sugar and coconut syrup (we enjoy the latter the older we get). The whole day, aside from eating, is spent hoping to go home–when will your parents get tired from all the gossiping and card playing?– as we down our third bag of that green stuff. Just waiting… until the dust suffocates our lungs and observing the day slowly pass by from the light off the grass. And when we return back home, we sometimes forget to shower and just go to sleep. This cycles less and less, every week as one gets older and no longer are we willing to be stuffed into the family minivan–the same one that your dad use to drive to work, opting instead to stay home or, go somewhere else with our own car. And if we “choose” to go to the park, it will only be every once in a while, and we think back to our memories formed there.

2. Khmer people love roadside plants. In fact, we can probably eat everything and anything that grows out of the ground. If you can salt it, sugar it, pickle it–Khmer style– you can eat it. Mild diarrhea is not problem. We will just get a rub of white monkey tiger balm on our bellies and walk it off. And we knew better than to eat that unknown plant growing on the highway, but when it is next to that pra-hok or duk-krung, we can’t help ourselves. Remember how we didn’t like to eat Khmer food growing up? How we longed for hamburgers, hotdogs, and pizza, because that was more American and more in line with what we saw on T.V. (like when we saw them eat turkey and other American cuisine at their family gatherings, a la FULL HOUSE with Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen)! But now, we eat Khmer food with vicious ambition. But I digress…Going back then, to the Khmer people and plants, we don’t even know the plant’s name, only it’s location on the highway or, on the grounds of the shopping mall. And of course, there are other identifiers: what “could” be eaten is given a prefix of year and number identification. So that when something new becomes edible, the species discovered in that year will be called by plant year (2008) and then number of discovery (#1), so that there is no confusion. Plants discovered since the last follow the pattern until the end of that qualifying year. The information is passed to the community and soon the plant, its location, shape, taste, and cooking method is public information. In no time, the plant species becomes extinct because everyone will have stripped that sucker down to the bone (The same thing that happened to that crab apple tree and what’s happening to plant 1985 #01. 1985 #01 grows near the airport, is long and stringy, and is pickled and eaten with grilled fish). Yum.

3. Khmer people love their music, I will say it again; KHMER PEOPLE LOVE THEIR MUSIC. Growing up and going on family trips to the park, in the family first car (which was a wagon of some kind with un-tinted windows so other people saw the whole family stuffed into the Japanese vehicle), or going on trips to pick plant 1995 #56, we listened to that strange Khmer music with the language that we did not understand. We would have preferred to take those tapes, toss them out the window, or hide them from mom and dad before getting in the car. To really breaking our parents’ hearts, the night before a trip, we would record the top 10 countdown from the radio over the classic Khmer tape, so that in the middle of a Sin Si Samuth song, 2Pac or Bone Thugs and Harmony screaming “THUG LIFE!!!” or “It’s Da First of Da Month” respectively, could be heard loud and clear. And how our parents wondered if something was wrong with the stereo?! Being the smart one in the family, we would exercise our American education and reply that “nothing is wrong and that is how the stereo works.” Telling your parents that they do not know technology as well as we do because we are now officially American (having spent 9am to 3pm in a western educational setting on a daily basis and since we no longer associate ourselves as Khmer). But as much as you tried to erase those words of Sin Si Samouth, Pen Rom, Srey Sros Sothear, Ing Nary, Meas Samorn from those tapes, those words still stuck inside your mind. And even though you cannot sing along, you listen along and you learned. These songs slowly crept into our minds as we got older, and now we wish we didn’t erase all of those treasures. We no longer want to be American. We want to be Khmer. So we started thinking about every possible way to repent what we did in our youth. We started looking on the Internet for places to download (and if you are feeling guilty, places to purchase) the Khmer songs you used to hate. Until you discover Napster and then, boom!!!! We’ve got a whole, newly-refreshed Khmer musical library. We start playing the music every single day, and our parents are so proud that we like the things they cherish. That is, until they are tired of hearing the same stupid song over and over again. Now they are getting tired of us and our songs. They would prefer to listen to rap instead of the constant annoyance of Khmer music blaring 24/7. All of our friends think that we are crazy but we know that we are not. With the Khmer flag in our rooms, and all those Angkor Wat T-shirts we bought off eBay, we feel like the saviors of Khmer culture– popping our Khmer bangers in, bopping our heads, and rolling down the Khmer strip of our cities in our 1995 civics.

Then we hit a roadblock in our lives. We are older now and have seen how much of our lives are Khmer and not really Cambodian. We think about our need to go to Cambodia and see what Cambodia is like. So we dream about all the things in our hearts, about the country our parents left behind. But then when we look at our demeanor and mannerisms, we can see that we are far from being Cambodian, Cambodian/American, and far from being American. Holding that American passport in hand, we start to become unsure about who we really are. Then our identities come back to us in questions needing answers. We take that passport, get on a plane, somehow with whatever means, and fly to what we think is our motherland. We take a good look back at America and silently ask ourselves, “Who am I?” (often afraid to ask loudly because we are so proud to be survivors in America). Trying to find our histories, we got years of knowing how bad our days growing up American was instead of counting the contrary. Trying not to feel defeated by society, we wish that the country that we most feel connects us (the motherland), will help us discover our heritage and overcome the cowardice of ignorance from years of not knowing our story.

We arrive to taste the fresh air that is Cambodia, only to be choked by the dust and exhaust from the traffic there. We spend ten months avoiding being hit by motos, or being run over by Lexus and Land cruisers with RCAF and Government green license plates. We sit in places of solitude only to be disturbed by the “Beautiful Girls” ringtone. We hear people talking about how much their land is worth now, while their bodyguards sport AK-47s (They are nothing without their bodyguards we think, because their body flows blood like everybody else… and they breathe the same pollution as you). We sit there and think about how we have spent our lives trying to figure out how to win in this world and knowing full well that we are only playing with ourselves. Then we feel discouraged that more and more, Cambodians abroad reveal themselves by not appreciating their brothers, sisters, mothers, fathers, sons, and daughters who came from back home. We think about our gifts and talents and the hope we can give back to the place inside our hearts. Yet we only see the corruption that happens everywhere, replacing the light with the darkness, and we refuse to think that this is only a Cambodian problem. Then we hope for it to be over, and start counting the days until we come back home. We have given up on Cambodia and now know who we are. We are Khmer, more Khmer that we have understood. We are not Cambodian– Cambodians are people who live in Cambodia, there is no Cambodian living where we came from. We are just Khmer kids who grew up with Khmer experiences somewhere else… So how many more days ’til I go?

I am counting less than 100 and all I gave Cambodia is six kilos of my body. So in the meantime, I spend some better days watching old people exercise in unison at the Olympic stadium. That is how I manage my time amidst the problems, even though I lost 6 kilos since I got here. I wish I still had the motivation to dance with the people in the video but, I feel it better to share their smiles from behind my camera.

Click here to email Phally with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by Phally Chroy

So with the string of bad luck running in my life, it only seems fair that a water blessing be in store. Not only was it a fun way to get naked but it was also fun for the monk to extract his anger upon an unexpected evildoer like myself. I swear, with every water splash onto my backside, it was almost like I was preparing for a haymaker or something. With every throw, my folded hands reacted… Look at my face, even laughter and humor couldn’t save me from that monk.

Well, all things considered, I guess I was deserving of my blessing. I mean, there is no other (or better) time to ever see me robed in a monk’s dressing gown. So with all “prep-ness,” shot by my friend Mongkol, I bring you Phally’s attempt for good luck and fortune in his future endeavors.

Click here to email Phally with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by James Collins

After spending so much time with Sello and Boy at their homes, I figured it was time to invite them to my place for a few days. They have been kind enough to let me into their lives, so why not let them into mine? They eagerly accepted my invitation and were excited to see my apartment and watch some videos I had been telling them about. They also asked if they could bring their friend Happy, another drummer from the band, with them and I, of course, accepted, bringing our drum party to four.

They stayed for two nights and we had an amazing time. We did a lot of drumming (on pads and shoes and magazines and whatever else we could find), wrote a new drum feature for their band and watched plenty of videos. They seemed to enjoy everything and I’m sure they learned a lot from the experience. They were also some of the best house guests I’ve ever had. I couldn’t believe it when they started mopping the floors and thoroughly cleaning the bathroom. They were respectful and just a lot of fun to have around. However, I did make the mistake of telling them they could eat as much as they wanted. I have never seen sandwiches stacked so high!

I also learned a lot from them. I regard Sello and Boy as friends and I don’t really associate terms like “disadvantaged” or “impoverished” with them. Those words seem so cold to me. I view them simply as capable young men who perhaps haven’t had many opportunities. But, some of the things they said really gave me pause.

At one point, Boy asked me how many meals I eat a day. I answered (at least three) and asked him the same question, only to find out that he can generally only afford to eat once a day. I also found out that Sello’s family can’t afford to get him a passport for the upcoming Field Band tour to Norway. The cost is around $25. They live on next to nothing, yet they don’t seem at all like “poor African children” or whatever other term might apply. They carry themselves with pride and that is something I really respect.

There were also plenty of funny “cultural” moments during their stay. For instance, they thought it was hilarious that I would want to drink my tea cold (iced tea). They also asked me if we have Coca Cola in America and were fascinated by Listerine. I also had this silly idea that they probably didn’t shower that much (a terrible stereotype based on the conditions of where they live). But, it seemed like they spent half their time showering and bathing!. They even asked me at one point why I didn’t shower so much.

I could go on, but perhaps it’s best to let a video do the talking. I turned my camera on just before they left and they decided to give a little Cribs-style tour of my apartment. I’ve also included some of our drumming and a very nice message they had for me at the end.

Click here to email James with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by Aaron Shneyer

There is so much to say. Frustrations, amazements, hopes, confusions.
A lot has happened since I posted the last two videos, almost too much to even think of putting into a blog entry. Thankfully, all in all, things are great. The band continues to come up with some beautiful original music and keeps getting closer and closer to actually playing and thinking like a band. Still it seems there is never enough time to do everything. Music, politics, fixing the world…it’s a long process.

I hope you enjoy this video of Dana’s song, “Dance on a River.” The clip is from the first time the band played the song together, so you can see we’re working out quite a lot as we go along. Hopefully you’ll pick up on the atmosphere in the room. For me its some mixture of excitement, nervousness, tension, joy, hope and complete calm. I wonder what it’ll be like for you. A big thanks to Lola Kalman for the great film work; capturing the energy of the whole room with one camera isn’t easy.

Thanks once again for tuning in. We’ve got a lot of great material on the way, as always.And thanks to everyone who’s written. Your comments, feedback, suggestions, questions and shout outs are always appreciated.

With Love,
Aaron

Click here to email Aaron with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by Phally Chroy

Untitled Apsara kids

Sovanna Phum, in Phomn Penh on march 23, 2008

At times, I find my Fulbright experience in Cambodia so bleak. All the problems that Cambodians face: corruption, oppression, fear, and poverty, strike me at a personal level, perhaps because I too, encounter them daily. But, it is the same everywhere, right? Sometimes, I am not so sure, although the problems in Cambodia do not seem so different from the problems in America, aside from being Cambodian in nature, shape, and form. It was my choice to do research here, but sometimes I think, was it really worth it? To come to a country that I call “mother” in heart, although never truly being accepted by her children?

Read more…

by James Collins

*Additional footage by Shani Van Straaten

I met Sello and Boy when I first visited the Cullinan field band a little over a month ago. I was excited to see the band because I had heard they had some talented drummers. As much as I love working with beginners, my favorite lessons are always with the more advanced players. They tend to pick things up very quickly and really appreciate what I have to offer.

Cullinan is a small rural town outside of Pretoria. It has much less crime than the urban townships and is actually quite peaceful and clean, though, like most of South Africa, is not without its problems. For example, drug abuse is major issue in the schools.

It took me almost an hour and a half to get to Cullinan from Johannesburg on my first visit. When I arrived in town, a guy named Peter greeted me and led me to the school where the band rehearses. As we were pulling up to the field, he casually mentioned that the band’s truck driver had recently quit and that they didn’t have any instruments for rehearsal. I almost jumped out of my seat, thinking to myself, “I drove all the way up here to teach these kids and no one cared to mention that they don’t even have instruments!” But, I kept my cool and asked if there were some way to get the instrument truck to the school. Peter told me they were trying to find a new driver, but until then they would have to rehearse without instruments…

Read more…

Comments Off

by Aaron Shneyer

YES! We have videos online! These clips are from our 3rd and 4th meetings. The first shows the band playing and improvising over a classical Arabic song called Lama Bada Yata Sanna. Wissam Murad taught the song to the group to give them a taste of the Arabic scales and rhythms and to get them improvising. Clearly he succeeded on both accounts. The song is in 10/8, which for all you non-musicians means that it’s not an easy rhythm, especially for any student of Western music. The students in the band picked it up with no problem. I especially love how you can hear the jazz backgrounds of a few of our players coming through their solos and fitting in perfectly, bringing the song to new places. I’m sure this song has never sounded like this before!

Read more…

by Phally Chroy

After a long day of shooting b-roll for my documentary, I thought of doing something fun with the interns. Cut to the chase, I decided that we were going to eat bugs. You see, I like food, and it would just be ignorant of me not to try insects while I’m here in Cambodia. I mean, if my parents ate them when they use to live in Cambodia, I surely have some insect-eating DNA in my genetic code. So here it is. And just for reference, I have eaten cricket before, but these were Cambodian-style crickets so I didn’t know exactly what to expect.

So what’s on the menu? Black spiders and Cambodian crickets. And these spiders were not pretty at all. I tell you, they were long, black, and hairy. My mind was racing… how was I supposed to eat them? Well, I did and we shot it on video. In fact, since this is a very giving month, a special treat! I also ate a cricket, which is in this video too. Thanks to all the interns, Muth and Kawick for their help with the other camera, and eating the buggers as well.

Accompanying this video is a classic Cambodian song about going to the “New Market.” It is a popular oldie, which the singers sing that they are going to the market to look for girls but in this video, (obviously) we are going to the market to look for insects.

Phally

Click here to email Phally with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.