I just read my first post from this blog and had to laugh. It took me back to September of 2007 when I was frantically packing and trying to prepare for my first journey to South Africa. The laughter was not over my idealistic visions of how this year would turn out, but rather over the fact that I now find myself once again frantically packing and preparing. I leave in just one day for a very special trip. I will be touring Southern Africa (specifically Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Swaziland, and South Africa) in a Land Rover with one of my best friends. Then, I will be traveling to East Africa to do some film work in Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. All told, I will be away for one month before heading home for the holidays.

I find myself now in the strange position of being between journeys. My Fulbright year in South Africa is officially over and the next phase of my life has yet to begin. I am extremely busy, but everything I’m doing has to do with closing one chapter and opening another. I’m selling my car and moving out of my apartment, while trying to book camp sights in Botswana and fuel sources in Zimbabwe. It is hectic, but exciting. Times like these are special though, because they allow you to look at the past and future without being stuck in any one place. And it is through this lens that I have begun to look back on my year in South Africa.
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I have officially been in South Africa for a year now. It’s hard to believe, but my work with the Field Band Foundation has come to an end and my Fulbright is officially over. I will be writing a concluding post in the next few days, but first I’d like to write a bit about the 2008 Field Band Championships.

As you may recall from last year, the National Championships is the culminating event held each year for the many bands that comprise the Field Band Foundation. The groups come to Johannesburg from all over the country to compete for top honors in several different categories. Each band has to put a twelve-minute show together and compete in one of two divisions: the First Division or the Premiere Division. The First Division is for younger bands and low-scoring groups from the previous year’s Premiere Division competition. The Premiere Division is for the top bands. Also, as part of the two-day event, there is a solo and ensemble competition and a “prescribed piece” competition in which the bands perform a set piece composed for the event.
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When I eat food now, I chose to eat rice plain with just a little meat and vegetable. When I do not see a smile, I try to find one somewhere. When it rains, I do not stop and take cover but continue walking. When I see a moto taxi, I take a cyclo because no one rides cyclos no more. When I see that I have too many shoes or too many pairs of clothes, I give them away. When the kids offer to buy me food, I tell them to save their money until they become famous and when I then have no money, then they can feed me. When I hear a question that has been not been asked, I ask if they are having a nice day to find out that unasked question. If somebody is looking at me with curiosity, I smile and blow them a kiss. Even if my day is gloomy, I will still try to find ways to shine for the people who I will meet that day in Cambodia.

I learn to care more about the things and people of importance in my life. I care about the poor kids who have no pants, the sex worker who has no other choice, the corrupted who lost their way, and the hopeless who feel that they cannot change the world they see. I care for the people who spoke my name this one special year and helped me remember what my name means. I care for the people I laughed with, people I hugged, and people who gave me time. I care for the people who had taken advantage of me and the people who treated me with honesty. They are still people. I care for the people who I had not met and the people who I made friends.

I care for the man who cut me the fresh coconut juice. I care for the cyclo man who took me to Central Market. I care for the police officer that wanted bribe money. I care for the politician who wanted to shoot me. I care for the rich Cambodian kids who looked at me when I walk into their place; out of place. I care for the politicians whose corruption money helped him buy his Landcruiser(s). I care for the lady who sells me sweet mango and coconut rice. I care for Auntie who smiles at me every time I order rice and eggs. I care for the people who look and stare at an out of place person in an out of place country.

I care for Chariya who gave me hope and support for the year. I care for my ballerina dancer who left with memories of love. I care for Socheta who brought me a chocolate roll every time it was available. I care for Casmir who spent New Years with me. I care for Brother T who took me home when no one else did. I care for Kaa who gave me a smile every time we bargained for a mosquito net. I care for Kanal, for whom I lost his number and the bowl of noodles we both shared. I care for Bong Phany and Bong Long for the long trips to the countryside and constant word of guidance, laughter, and who made me feel like I was their brother. I care for Luk Kru and Nek Kru would never lost their humor even though most times, things were not funny. I thank my Cambodia Mother, Aunties, and Uncles who adopted me and welcomed me with hospitality. I care for my sugar cane girls who always remember to give me sugar cane juice without orange squeeze. I care for the orphan kids who I sit with and argue about WWE on the waterfront. I care for Nina and our made up T-shirt business. I care for Sarah Dee and Sarah Tee who were real friends to me and but who I failed to meet our friendship with expectations. I care for Noy, my sexy beast that always matches my laughter with hers. I feel for my motop brother who name I forgot that gave me a ride one day even though I had no money. I care for Rina’s DVD shop for keeping me busy with movies at night. I care for Sergio for always greeting me every time I see him. I care for Bong at the FCC who always smiles when we shook hands. I care for my fried banana lady who fries the best bananas in Phnom Penh. I care for the T&Coffee staff that always remembered when I shaved or had my hair cut. I care for the people in the countryside who I know one day life will be better. I especially care for my kids – my Tonle Bassac Kids who I come to call young brothers and sisters. I think about my fellow Fulbrights who speak condescendingly towards my work, that I am not doing nothing but I care for the laughs from them knowing that I have one of the greatest treasure in the world. I know of things they didn’t experienced, how to sit, eat, sleep, dance, smile, laugh, cry, sing, travel with kids who do not know nothing about what a Fulbright is. I care for the pretension of them towards Cambodia because I have enough of my time here to write a book that people I know will choose to read. I care for their pleasure on the decision making process of which expat restaurant or making happy hour but I make happy hour of enjoying my watching of my young brothers and sisters dancing. If my other Fulbrights only saw what I understood this year, then they would understand why I took this Fulbright experience to Cambodia not as resume builder, free vacation for 10 months, or a stepping-stone to grad school, but as an understanding to people in the world. I think deeply if their Fulbright really brought them a sense of Cambodia like it did to me but then I do not know what they talked about during happy hour, but I care to know what I experienced during mine time of happy hour.

PS: I will leave you with a 12 min edit of my video, if you want a copy and can’t wait for the full upload on the web, you can email me. Also some there some more items to boot. Photo credits go to Rany and Jenny.

I would like to finally thank Fulbright, mtvU, IIE, State Department, and my new and old family and friends for giving me this year. Thank You.

Here is a Transcript of the video:

1. Kids singing

I asked the kids to sing me a song, they started but then I stopped them and joked with them on how they are not doing the motion. They laughed and then told me I had to give them more money. Then we restarted the song which then lead in to the start of the teaser.

2. It starts with the first interviewee talking about the importance of this music by the deceased artist reveals a cambodian connection to culture and revealing of cambodian life. Then it continue to the next interviewee talking about how he remembers growing up how his mom and him used to listen to the music and how his granddad will save up money to buy batteries to listen put in the radio

3. Next, one of my kids I interviewed sings me a very moving classic song. Just the acapella reachs to the scope of the lyrics

4. Cuts to a local Khmer artist who is talking about the Khmer Rouge and how the people upon the return were so emotional upon hearing the music for the very first time

5. The founder of Cambodian Living Arts is talking about how these artist were called “legends” and then talk about the far reaching of the music. It then continues to next person who is talking about music preservations of NGOs to preserve the arts and culture of Cambodia.

6. It finishes with the process of a recent CD making efforts in cambodia

by Phally Chroy

Let’s do the math: if you can relate to the following entry, then I guess we have something in common. If not, do not feel left out. I still love you like my brother, sisters, father, mother– like my family.

Here are some random things to think about when you are sitting there thinking about your life, how far you have traveled, how much you have accomplished, and how there are those the things that you wish you had done less of.

1. Khmer people love to go the park (if you grew up in America and are remotely Khmer, then you know what I am talking about). We go to the park whenever it is hot and treat it like a family gathering: Always looking to buy those small, dirty clams and eat them at home with tamarind garlic sauce. If not, then we’re probably buying bok-la-hung from the Laos lady instead of the Khmer lady, because the Laos lady makes her homemade crab sauce spicier. When done with the bok-la hung, and looking for something else to eat, we head for the grilled chicken or beef (never touching the grilled fish because we know better. It was probably caught in the same lake we remember jumping and swimming in when we were young). Then our sweet tooth takes hold… and either we get some of that pink or green sweet drink stuff mixed with ice (that makes your teeth rot), reserving the coffee flavor drink stuff for the old folks or, head for the Khmer dessert: the green noodles with sugar and coconut syrup (we enjoy the latter the older we get). The whole day, aside from eating, is spent hoping to go home–when will your parents get tired from all the gossiping and card playing?– as we down our third bag of that green stuff. Just waiting… until the dust suffocates our lungs and observing the day slowly pass by from the light off the grass. And when we return back home, we sometimes forget to shower and just go to sleep. This cycles less and less, every week as one gets older and no longer are we willing to be stuffed into the family minivan–the same one that your dad use to drive to work, opting instead to stay home or, go somewhere else with our own car. And if we “choose” to go to the park, it will only be every once in a while, and we think back to our memories formed there.

2. Khmer people love roadside plants. In fact, we can probably eat everything and anything that grows out of the ground. If you can salt it, sugar it, pickle it–Khmer style– you can eat it. Mild diarrhea is not problem. We will just get a rub of white monkey tiger balm on our bellies and walk it off. And we knew better than to eat that unknown plant growing on the highway, but when it is next to that pra-hok or duk-krung, we can’t help ourselves. Remember how we didn’t like to eat Khmer food growing up? How we longed for hamburgers, hotdogs, and pizza, because that was more American and more in line with what we saw on T.V. (like when we saw them eat turkey and other American cuisine at their family gatherings, a la FULL HOUSE with Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen)! But now, we eat Khmer food with vicious ambition. But I digress…Going back then, to the Khmer people and plants, we don’t even know the plant’s name, only it’s location on the highway or, on the grounds of the shopping mall. And of course, there are other identifiers: what “could” be eaten is given a prefix of year and number identification. So that when something new becomes edible, the species discovered in that year will be called by plant year (2008) and then number of discovery (#1), so that there is no confusion. Plants discovered since the last follow the pattern until the end of that qualifying year. The information is passed to the community and soon the plant, its location, shape, taste, and cooking method is public information. In no time, the plant species becomes extinct because everyone will have stripped that sucker down to the bone (The same thing that happened to that crab apple tree and what’s happening to plant 1985 #01. 1985 #01 grows near the airport, is long and stringy, and is pickled and eaten with grilled fish). Yum.

3. Khmer people love their music, I will say it again; KHMER PEOPLE LOVE THEIR MUSIC. Growing up and going on family trips to the park, in the family first car (which was a wagon of some kind with un-tinted windows so other people saw the whole family stuffed into the Japanese vehicle), or going on trips to pick plant 1995 #56, we listened to that strange Khmer music with the language that we did not understand. We would have preferred to take those tapes, toss them out the window, or hide them from mom and dad before getting in the car. To really breaking our parents’ hearts, the night before a trip, we would record the top 10 countdown from the radio over the classic Khmer tape, so that in the middle of a Sin Si Samuth song, 2Pac or Bone Thugs and Harmony screaming “THUG LIFE!!!” or “It’s Da First of Da Month” respectively, could be heard loud and clear. And how our parents wondered if something was wrong with the stereo?! Being the smart one in the family, we would exercise our American education and reply that “nothing is wrong and that is how the stereo works.” Telling your parents that they do not know technology as well as we do because we are now officially American (having spent 9am to 3pm in a western educational setting on a daily basis and since we no longer associate ourselves as Khmer). But as much as you tried to erase those words of Sin Si Samouth, Pen Rom, Srey Sros Sothear, Ing Nary, Meas Samorn from those tapes, those words still stuck inside your mind. And even though you cannot sing along, you listen along and you learned. These songs slowly crept into our minds as we got older, and now we wish we didn’t erase all of those treasures. We no longer want to be American. We want to be Khmer. So we started thinking about every possible way to repent what we did in our youth. We started looking on the Internet for places to download (and if you are feeling guilty, places to purchase) the Khmer songs you used to hate. Until you discover Napster and then, boom!!!! We’ve got a whole, newly-refreshed Khmer musical library. We start playing the music every single day, and our parents are so proud that we like the things they cherish. That is, until they are tired of hearing the same stupid song over and over again. Now they are getting tired of us and our songs. They would prefer to listen to rap instead of the constant annoyance of Khmer music blaring 24/7. All of our friends think that we are crazy but we know that we are not. With the Khmer flag in our rooms, and all those Angkor Wat T-shirts we bought off eBay, we feel like the saviors of Khmer culture– popping our Khmer bangers in, bopping our heads, and rolling down the Khmer strip of our cities in our 1995 civics.

Then we hit a roadblock in our lives. We are older now and have seen how much of our lives are Khmer and not really Cambodian. We think about our need to go to Cambodia and see what Cambodia is like. So we dream about all the things in our hearts, about the country our parents left behind. But then when we look at our demeanor and mannerisms, we can see that we are far from being Cambodian, Cambodian/American, and far from being American. Holding that American passport in hand, we start to become unsure about who we really are. Then our identities come back to us in questions needing answers. We take that passport, get on a plane, somehow with whatever means, and fly to what we think is our motherland. We take a good look back at America and silently ask ourselves, “Who am I?” (often afraid to ask loudly because we are so proud to be survivors in America). Trying to find our histories, we got years of knowing how bad our days growing up American was instead of counting the contrary. Trying not to feel defeated by society, we wish that the country that we most feel connects us (the motherland), will help us discover our heritage and overcome the cowardice of ignorance from years of not knowing our story.

We arrive to taste the fresh air that is Cambodia, only to be choked by the dust and exhaust from the traffic there. We spend ten months avoiding being hit by motos, or being run over by Lexus and Land cruisers with RCAF and Government green license plates. We sit in places of solitude only to be disturbed by the “Beautiful Girls” ringtone. We hear people talking about how much their land is worth now, while their bodyguards sport AK-47s (They are nothing without their bodyguards we think, because their body flows blood like everybody else… and they breathe the same pollution as you). We sit there and think about how we have spent our lives trying to figure out how to win in this world and knowing full well that we are only playing with ourselves. Then we feel discouraged that more and more, Cambodians abroad reveal themselves by not appreciating their brothers, sisters, mothers, fathers, sons, and daughters who came from back home. We think about our gifts and talents and the hope we can give back to the place inside our hearts. Yet we only see the corruption that happens everywhere, replacing the light with the darkness, and we refuse to think that this is only a Cambodian problem. Then we hope for it to be over, and start counting the days until we come back home. We have given up on Cambodia and now know who we are. We are Khmer, more Khmer that we have understood. We are not Cambodian– Cambodians are people who live in Cambodia, there is no Cambodian living where we came from. We are just Khmer kids who grew up with Khmer experiences somewhere else… So how many more days ’til I go?

I am counting less than 100 and all I gave Cambodia is six kilos of my body. So in the meantime, I spend some better days watching old people exercise in unison at the Olympic stadium. That is how I manage my time amidst the problems, even though I lost 6 kilos since I got here. I wish I still had the motivation to dance with the people in the video but, I feel it better to share their smiles from behind my camera.

Click here to email Phally with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by Phally Chroy

So with the string of bad luck running in my life, it only seems fair that a water blessing be in store. Not only was it a fun way to get naked but it was also fun for the monk to extract his anger upon an unexpected evildoer like myself. I swear, with every water splash onto my backside, it was almost like I was preparing for a haymaker or something. With every throw, my folded hands reacted… Look at my face, even laughter and humor couldn’t save me from that monk.

Well, all things considered, I guess I was deserving of my blessing. I mean, there is no other (or better) time to ever see me robed in a monk’s dressing gown. So with all “prep-ness,” shot by my friend Mongkol, I bring you Phally’s attempt for good luck and fortune in his future endeavors.

Click here to email Phally with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by Larnies Bowen

“¿Vieron el desfile?” (”Did you see the parade?) asked Olga as she combed the white alisado cream through the roots of Vanessa’s deep ruby-red hair. “Sí, era puro reggae” (”Yeah, it was pure reggae.”) chimed la asistente in a way that let me know that this was not a good thing. To be honest, I hadn’t been paying much attention to the beauty salon chatter (I was busy re-reading The Devil Behind the Miror by Stephen Gregory) until the topic of conversation switched to reggae and the weekend’s desfile, a parade honoring the nation.

Vanessa, a friend of my aunt’s, was kind enough to let me spend a few days at her home in Paraiso (a small town outside of the city primarily inhabited by the descendents of West Indian Canal Zone workers) while I was looking for an apartment. The Friday night before the parades, Vanessa and I went to the Figali Convention center to hear bands play dianas, a traditional Panamanian music form that was very popular during the month of independence. To my surprise, one of the most popular songs played there at the convention center and throughout the entire month was “Pasalo otra vez,” a song by leading Spanish Reggae artist Jr. Ranks. In between sets, a DJ played all of the hottest Dancehall music from JA and PTY.

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by James Collins

After spending so much time with Sello and Boy at their homes, I figured it was time to invite them to my place for a few days. They have been kind enough to let me into their lives, so why not let them into mine? They eagerly accepted my invitation and were excited to see my apartment and watch some videos I had been telling them about. They also asked if they could bring their friend Happy, another drummer from the band, with them and I, of course, accepted, bringing our drum party to four.

They stayed for two nights and we had an amazing time. We did a lot of drumming (on pads and shoes and magazines and whatever else we could find), wrote a new drum feature for their band and watched plenty of videos. They seemed to enjoy everything and I’m sure they learned a lot from the experience. They were also some of the best house guests I’ve ever had. I couldn’t believe it when they started mopping the floors and thoroughly cleaning the bathroom. They were respectful and just a lot of fun to have around. However, I did make the mistake of telling them they could eat as much as they wanted. I have never seen sandwiches stacked so high!

I also learned a lot from them. I regard Sello and Boy as friends and I don’t really associate terms like “disadvantaged” or “impoverished” with them. Those words seem so cold to me. I view them simply as capable young men who perhaps haven’t had many opportunities. But, some of the things they said really gave me pause.

At one point, Boy asked me how many meals I eat a day. I answered (at least three) and asked him the same question, only to find out that he can generally only afford to eat once a day. I also found out that Sello’s family can’t afford to get him a passport for the upcoming Field Band tour to Norway. The cost is around $25. They live on next to nothing, yet they don’t seem at all like “poor African children” or whatever other term might apply. They carry themselves with pride and that is something I really respect.

There were also plenty of funny “cultural” moments during their stay. For instance, they thought it was hilarious that I would want to drink my tea cold (iced tea). They also asked me if we have Coca Cola in America and were fascinated by Listerine. I also had this silly idea that they probably didn’t shower that much (a terrible stereotype based on the conditions of where they live). But, it seemed like they spent half their time showering and bathing!. They even asked me at one point why I didn’t shower so much.

I could go on, but perhaps it’s best to let a video do the talking. I turned my camera on just before they left and they decided to give a little Cribs-style tour of my apartment. I’ve also included some of our drumming and a very nice message they had for me at the end.

Click here to email James with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by Aaron Shneyer

There is so much to say. Frustrations, amazements, hopes, confusions.
A lot has happened since I posted the last two videos, almost too much to even think of putting into a blog entry. Thankfully, all in all, things are great. The band continues to come up with some beautiful original music and keeps getting closer and closer to actually playing and thinking like a band. Still it seems there is never enough time to do everything. Music, politics, fixing the world…it’s a long process.

I hope you enjoy this video of Dana’s song, “Dance on a River.” The clip is from the first time the band played the song together, so you can see we’re working out quite a lot as we go along. Hopefully you’ll pick up on the atmosphere in the room. For me its some mixture of excitement, nervousness, tension, joy, hope and complete calm. I wonder what it’ll be like for you. A big thanks to Lola Kalman for the great film work; capturing the energy of the whole room with one camera isn’t easy.

Thanks once again for tuning in. We’ve got a lot of great material on the way, as always.And thanks to everyone who’s written. Your comments, feedback, suggestions, questions and shout outs are always appreciated.

With Love,
Aaron

Click here to email Aaron with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by Phally Chroy

The Grace of the Apsara dance is everywhere, most especially in the hearts and minds of the Cambodia people. This is dedicated to them– to all the Apsara dancers around the world, near or far.

This entry is going to be a poem that I wrote, because this is my blog? Right? Enjoy.

Apsara dancer color

Sovanna Phum, in Phomn Penh on march 23, 2008

The Grace of the Apsara

Is it beautiful? The grace of the Apsara,
celestial dancer, in the hearts of many.
Her smiles, sadden by years of dance for love,
her eyes from life that is born from the heavens

Apsara dancer b/w

Sovanna Phum, in Phomn Penh on march 23, 2008

Dancing with grace and elegance
from centuries and history rooted in memories.
Lost at times in dance and direction,
but never forgotten by those who had seen.
For the seen, it is a daze from the direction from her eyes and smile.

The celestial ballet that has captured hearts and
bestowed punishment to those who has seen her sadness from the heavens.
To steal smiles from mere simple beings like myself.
This is the punishment to dance with an Apsara.
With pain rooted in her dance.

Apsara dancers b/w

Sovanna Phum, in Phomn Penh on march 23, 2008

Phally

Click here to email Phally with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by Phally Chroy

Untitled Apsara kids

Sovanna Phum, in Phomn Penh on march 23, 2008

At times, I find my Fulbright experience in Cambodia so bleak. All the problems that Cambodians face: corruption, oppression, fear, and poverty, strike me at a personal level, perhaps because I too, encounter them daily. But, it is the same everywhere, right? Sometimes, I am not so sure, although the problems in Cambodia do not seem so different from the problems in America, aside from being Cambodian in nature, shape, and form. It was my choice to do research here, but sometimes I think, was it really worth it? To come to a country that I call “mother” in heart, although never truly being accepted by her children?

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