I just read my first post from this blog and had to laugh. It took me back to September of 2007 when I was frantically packing and trying to prepare for my first journey to South Africa. The laughter was not over my idealistic visions of how this year would turn out, but rather over the fact that I now find myself once again frantically packing and preparing. I leave in just one day for a very special trip. I will be touring Southern Africa (specifically Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Swaziland, and South Africa) in a Land Rover with one of my best friends. Then, I will be traveling to East Africa to do some film work in Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. All told, I will be away for one month before heading home for the holidays.

I find myself now in the strange position of being between journeys. My Fulbright year in South Africa is officially over and the next phase of my life has yet to begin. I am extremely busy, but everything I’m doing has to do with closing one chapter and opening another. I’m selling my car and moving out of my apartment, while trying to book camp sights in Botswana and fuel sources in Zimbabwe. It is hectic, but exciting. Times like these are special though, because they allow you to look at the past and future without being stuck in any one place. And it is through this lens that I have begun to look back on my year in South Africa.
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I have officially been in South Africa for a year now. It’s hard to believe, but my work with the Field Band Foundation has come to an end and my Fulbright is officially over. I will be writing a concluding post in the next few days, but first I’d like to write a bit about the 2008 Field Band Championships.

As you may recall from last year, the National Championships is the culminating event held each year for the many bands that comprise the Field Band Foundation. The groups come to Johannesburg from all over the country to compete for top honors in several different categories. Each band has to put a twelve-minute show together and compete in one of two divisions: the First Division or the Premiere Division. The First Division is for younger bands and low-scoring groups from the previous year’s Premiere Division competition. The Premiere Division is for the top bands. Also, as part of the two-day event, there is a solo and ensemble competition and a “prescribed piece” competition in which the bands perform a set piece composed for the event.
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This past June I had the opportunity to travel to Norway with the Field Band Foundation to film their 2008 Norwegian tour and participation in Spilleglede, the annual Norwegian Band Festival. The tour covered several cities along the western coast of Norway and was a special opportunity for the National Field Band, a group selected from top students around the country. Over the course of 10 days, they performed 17 times, held several teaching workshops for young Norwegians and managed to see the highlights of one of the most beautiful parts of Norway. It was an exhilarating experience for everyone and I felt lucky to be there and to be able to enjoy the energy of the Field Band Foundation at its finest.

The Norwegian Band Federation and the Norwegian Peace Corps (Fredskorpset) have done a lot for the Field Band Foundation. Every year they send six Norwegian musicians to South Africa to teach music, discipline and organization to the field bands. The Field Band Foundation also sends several of their members to Norway to teach South African music and culture. It is a unique learning experience and has produced many great results for the FBF and the Norwegians as well. The program is funded by the Norwegian government and the 2008 Field Band tour served as a showcase of the success of the exchange, as well as a very entertaining international highlight to the festival.

Whereas the Field Band Foundation prides itself on its energy, spontaneity and (for lack of a better term) “African-ness”, Norwegian marching bands tend to be much more formal, disciplined and militaristic. In fact, the country’s most highly regarded marching band, the King’s Guard, is a military band through and through. But, this stark contrast between the Norwegians and the South Africans was really wonderful to see and audiences at every stop were blown away by the energy and warmth of the field band. In one scene from my video (posted below), you’ll see the Kings Guard followed immediately by the field band, and I think you’ll see what I mean about this contrast.

Though the performances were spectacular and beyond all my expectations, perhaps the most memorable moments of the tour for me were the many fun and often hilarious events that happened in between the performances. Wherever we went, there was a constant flow of energy and enthusiasm though the band. Whether they were rapping in Zulu, cracking jokes, singing traditional songs or playing pick-up soccer, every moment seemed to be filled with activity and fun. I got to know the group quite well and really enjoyed spending time with them as a friend and not just a teacher. I generally only see my students in South Africa during the scheduled times that I teach, so this opportunity was really special for me and definitely one of the highlights of my year with the Field Band Foundation.

Though I joined the tour as an innocent cameraman, I got conscripted into driving the instrument truck, then shuttling people around in a beat-up van after our bus broke down, and even acting as tour director for a couple of days when the person in charge got sick! So the tour was definitely pretty eventful for me too and though it got a bit stressful at times, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and would gladly do it again. In fact, I would love more than anything to organize a field band tour to the US. Perhaps I will set myself to that task when I get back home…

Take a look at the video below and let me know what you think. It’s the longest video I’ve made so far on the Field Band Foundation, but anything shorter just wouldn’t have done justice to the tour. I think mostly everything in the video is self-explanatory. But, if you are wondering how the band wound up singing and dancing along to a Romanian folk band, well I’m still a bit shocked about that myself! The Romanians were another international guest at the festival and apparently what started off as an impromptu drum competition between the South Africans and the Romanians turned into one of the most bizarre and amazing cross-cultural displays I could imagine. I hope you enjoy!

It’s been a while since my last post on the Field Band Foundation, so an update is definitely in order…

Lately I’ve been focusing on the bands from Cullinan, Daveyton, and Dobsonville, all in the Johannesburg/Pretoria area. I usually work with the drummers for about an hour and then observe the full band rehearsal to see how things are coming along. I’m happy to say that I’m seeing some nice progress all around. The national championships are just two months away, so attendance is improving and things are getting a bit more serious as everyone prepares for the competition.

I’ve included some clips from a recent rehearsal in Cullinan in the video below. It features a drum cadence I’ve been working on with my students and some footage from their full band rehearsal as well. Keep an eye out for my friend and colleague, Thomas, as he makes his debut “lemon curry” cameo. Thomas also taught the drummers in Cullinan for several months as part of the Norwegian Peace Corps program that assists the Field Band Foundation. Sadly, the six Norwegians from the group just went back home and the next group won’t arrive until October, so I will be without Norwegian buddies for a while.

Also included in the video are some clips from a recent performance I organized for my students from Cullinan. The Public Affairs Officer from the US Consulate in Johannesburg asked me if I could put a presentation together about my work for a group of American teachers traveling through the country. So, I assembled some videos for a short seminar and got the guys from Cullinan to come to Soweto (the biggest township in South Africa) to perform for the group. The clips feature some of the warm-ups and cadences I’ve been teaching them as well as a segment from their drum solo from last year’s championships. I hope you will be as impressed with them as I am. They are really coming along! We’re going to be putting this year’s solo together over the next few weeks, which should be a lot of fun. That’s when they get to use all of the fancy stick tricks and showy movements, like in the movie, Drumline. I will surely have a post about it once we get a little closer to the championships.

In other news, I am working on a video on the Field Band tour to Norway, which I attended several weeks ago. It was an absolutely incredible experience and I hope the video will do it justice. Look out for a post in the next couple of weeks. I’m also working on some songs for an album I’m going to be recording with a musician friend I met here several months ago, named Bham. The idea is to combine African styles with rock drumming and other international flavors. Hopefully it will be finished by November. I’m also planning some big trips for the coming months. I’m going to Zimbabwe next week and will be traveling to several other southern African countries in October/November. I’ve also got tentative plans to go to Tanzania and the Republic of the Congo. We’ll see how that all pans out. In the meantime, check out the video below and let me know what you think. My blog is now open for commenting, so please comment!

Living in one place and settling into a regular pattern of activity has its virtues. Since moving to Johannesburg, I’ve been able to eat regular, healthy meals, sleep eight hours a day, and work out several times a week. I also have a pretty regular teaching schedule and have allotted time to work on my film and various other projects, like this blog. I’ve even set up religious study sessions and am beginning to take Zulu lessons. This arrangement has allowed me to make a good deal of progress with my students and I have been able to complete many projects. But, the predictable way of life is not perfect, at least not for me.

I often miss the excitement of travel and the many variables of a more fast-paced life. Before moving to Joburg, my life was far from predicable. At college, there was always something new going on and the idea of having regular sleep or time for “slow and steady” development was out of the question. After college, I traveled for several months and then, when I first moved to South Africa in September, I spent over a month traveling and visiting the field bands around the country.

So, I have some mixed feelings about my new “normal” life. But, I’ve managed to plan a few trips over the coming months that should hopefully balance the competing interests of the fixed lifestyle I seem to need and the adventurous lifestyle I love. The first of my excursions came a few weeks ago when my parents came to South Africa to visit me.

It was really exciting to have them here. It’s rare that you get to show your folks a place that is intimately familiar to you, but which they have never seen before. My goal for the trip was to show them the absolute highlights of the country and it turned out to be one of the greatest trips of my life and a very special experience for my parents as well. They are already planning to come back in October!

The trip really did put things in perspective for me and gave me a sincere appreciation for the unique and inspiring qualities of this incredible country. The adventure took us around the country, from the game reserves of Mpumalanga, to bustling heart of Soweto, the haunting mountains of the Karoo, and the magnificent coasts of Cape Town.

I tried to balance the trip between natural wonders, cultural highlights, and “down-to-earth” South African experiences. To see the extreme luxury of some of the world’s most sumptuous game lodges without also experiencing the extreme poverty of some of the townships, would be a one-sided approach to touring South Africa. Likewise, a visit to the high-strung economic capital of Johannesburg without a trip to the laid-back and cosmopolitan city of Cape Town, would create an incomplete picture of the country.

This balanced approach really made the trip special and it was very refreshing for me to get out of Joburg for a bit and appreciate South Africa as a whole.

Please check out the slide show I’ve put together from the trip. I tried to cover a good amount of detail in my captions, but feel free to send me a message if you have any comments or questions.

by James Collins

After spending so much time with Sello and Boy at their homes, I figured it was time to invite them to my place for a few days. They have been kind enough to let me into their lives, so why not let them into mine? They eagerly accepted my invitation and were excited to see my apartment and watch some videos I had been telling them about. They also asked if they could bring their friend Happy, another drummer from the band, with them and I, of course, accepted, bringing our drum party to four.

They stayed for two nights and we had an amazing time. We did a lot of drumming (on pads and shoes and magazines and whatever else we could find), wrote a new drum feature for their band and watched plenty of videos. They seemed to enjoy everything and I’m sure they learned a lot from the experience. They were also some of the best house guests I’ve ever had. I couldn’t believe it when they started mopping the floors and thoroughly cleaning the bathroom. They were respectful and just a lot of fun to have around. However, I did make the mistake of telling them they could eat as much as they wanted. I have never seen sandwiches stacked so high!

I also learned a lot from them. I regard Sello and Boy as friends and I don’t really associate terms like “disadvantaged” or “impoverished” with them. Those words seem so cold to me. I view them simply as capable young men who perhaps haven’t had many opportunities. But, some of the things they said really gave me pause.

At one point, Boy asked me how many meals I eat a day. I answered (at least three) and asked him the same question, only to find out that he can generally only afford to eat once a day. I also found out that Sello’s family can’t afford to get him a passport for the upcoming Field Band tour to Norway. The cost is around $25. They live on next to nothing, yet they don’t seem at all like “poor African children” or whatever other term might apply. They carry themselves with pride and that is something I really respect.

There were also plenty of funny “cultural” moments during their stay. For instance, they thought it was hilarious that I would want to drink my tea cold (iced tea). They also asked me if we have Coca Cola in America and were fascinated by Listerine. I also had this silly idea that they probably didn’t shower that much (a terrible stereotype based on the conditions of where they live). But, it seemed like they spent half their time showering and bathing!. They even asked me at one point why I didn’t shower so much.

I could go on, but perhaps it’s best to let a video do the talking. I turned my camera on just before they left and they decided to give a little Cribs-style tour of my apartment. I’ve also included some of our drumming and a very nice message they had for me at the end.

Click here to email James with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by James Collins

Before I came to South Africa, I sent a very naïve email to the CEO of the Field Band Foundation enquiring about the nature of their “facilities” in the townships. The reply I got back simply said, “Hi Jimmy…We have no facilities in the townships. Field Bands = fields I’m afraid.” Though this fact became clear to me when I began working with the bands in September, I suppose it never really hit home until a few days ago…

I was teaching in Cullinan and had just finished my usual warm-ups with the drummers. We started working on a new drum solo, but after a few minutes, I heard something hit the ground next to me. I looked briefly at what seemed like a small piece of glass lying there and turned back to continue my lesson, only to find a cluster of very shocked faces staring at me. Boy then screamed “ICE ROCK!!” and within seconds they were all gone.

I stood there for a moment trying to make sense of what had just happened. Where did they go? Had there been some sort of cultural misunderstanding? Or perhaps there was some danger I wasn’t seeing? Then another piece of “glass” hit the ground. Then a few more fell and it finally hit me that “ice rock” = hail!

I looked back at the field band truck and saw some kids frantically trying to get the instruments packed away. Only a few brave souls had stayed behind to save the instruments; the rest had fled for shelter. I listened for a moment to the surreal sound of hail beating against the drums and then ran to help.

I managed to find a hat and a plastic bag to put on my head. Others found umbrellas and most notably, Sello and Boy were shielding themselves with a set of plastic chairs they had found by the truck. Meanwhile, four kids had formed a pseudo assembly line inside the truck, trying to get everything in before it was too late. Then all hell broke loose outside as heavy rain and some very serious lightening began to mix with the hail.

The “assembly line” didn’t prove to be very effective and those of us standing outside of the truck wound up getting completely soaked as we waited to pass the instruments inside. It was a total mess. But, somehow, the initial shock and panic gradually turned to laughter and smiles as we stopped caring about the weather and began to enjoy this very strange experience we were having together. The hail had mostly given way to torrential rain by that point and everyone had already gotten so wet that it seemed pointless to worry about it. The instruments would have to wait until the assembly line was ready for them. And finally, after a few more soggy minutes, everything was safely inside the truck.

With our mission accomplished, a bunch of kids jumped into my car and I turned on the heater at full blast to the delight of more than a few shivering bodies. Then I drove them home and made the hour-long journey back to my apartment in Johannesburg feeling like I had just stepped out of a swimming pool. Yes, Field Bands most definitely = fields.

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The hail begins and a few remain to save the instruments.

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The assembly line forms inside the truck.

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A very wet marimba makes its way into the truck.

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Sello and Boy shield themselves with plastic chairs.

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Panic gives way to laughter.

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How did my camera survive all this?

Click here to email James with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by James Collins

*Additional footage by Shani Van Straaten

I met Sello and Boy when I first visited the Cullinan field band a little over a month ago. I was excited to see the band because I had heard they had some talented drummers. As much as I love working with beginners, my favorite lessons are always with the more advanced players. They tend to pick things up very quickly and really appreciate what I have to offer.

Cullinan is a small rural town outside of Pretoria. It has much less crime than the urban townships and is actually quite peaceful and clean, though, like most of South Africa, is not without its problems. For example, drug abuse is major issue in the schools.

It took me almost an hour and a half to get to Cullinan from Johannesburg on my first visit. When I arrived in town, a guy named Peter greeted me and led me to the school where the band rehearses. As we were pulling up to the field, he casually mentioned that the band’s truck driver had recently quit and that they didn’t have any instruments for rehearsal. I almost jumped out of my seat, thinking to myself, “I drove all the way up here to teach these kids and no one cared to mention that they don’t even have instruments!” But, I kept my cool and asked if there were some way to get the instrument truck to the school. Peter told me they were trying to find a new driver, but until then they would have to rehearse without instruments…

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by James Collins

Wow… It’s hard to describe what an incredible experience this was. I was honestly blown away. For some reason, I had pictured the National Workshop as a rather serious affair with lots of practicing and note-taking and all that sort of thing. Though there was certainly a lot of hard work and an incredible amount of dedication on the part of the participants, it was, more than anything, a week of fun, friendship and creativity for everyone involved. This was one of the most inspiring and invigorating things I’ve seen in a long time.

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by James Collins

After over a month on the road, I’ve finally completed my journey through South Africa. It was truly a special experience and my understanding and appreciation of this country have grown enormously. South Africa is an incredibly varied and beautiful country, both in terms of its people and geography.

Rather than elaborate with more writing, I’ve put together a slide show to narrate the trip. Hopefully you will get a sense of the beauty of South Africa and of the success of the Field Band Foundation. I don’t have many photos here detailing the conditions of the townships where the bands rehearse, but bear in mind that these kids live in poverty and have to deal with conditions at home and in their communities that most Americans would find appalling.

Click here to email James with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.